Heating Sustems, Gas, Boiler, Hot Water, Electric and Oil, Even Wood Stoves:

• All Forced Air Systems: Conventional filters on forced-air systems should be checked monthly and cleaned or replaced as needed. Electronic filters should be checked monthly and cleaned as needed. Care should be taken to ensure the interior components are installed in the correct orientation after cleaning. Noisy blower sections should be brought to the attention of a technician. All types of furnaces and boilers should be inspected by a qualified technician every year to ensure that all the components are operating properly and no connections are loose or burned.
• Gas Furnaces and Boilers: If gas odors can be detected, call the gas company immediately. Do not turn on any electrical equipment or use anything with an open flame. Gas furnaces and boilers should be cleaned and serviced annually. The exhaust pipe should be checked for loose or corroded sections. The heat shield (located where the burner enters the heat exchanger) should be checked to ensure that it is not loose or corroded. Burn marks around the heat shield or soot on the front may indicate a draft or combustion problem. A technician should be contacted.
• All Hot Water Systems: Radiators and convector's should be inspected annually for leakage (particularly at the valves). Radiators should be bled of air annually, and as necessary during the heating season. Circulating pumps should be lubricated twice during the heating season. Expansion tanks should be drained annually.
• Electric Heat: Electric furnaces and boilers should be inspected by a qualified technician every year to ensure that all the components are operating properly and no connections are loose or burned. The fuses or circuit breakers in some electric systems can be checked by the homeowner. Electric baseboard heaters should be inspected to ensure an adequate clearance from combustibles and they are keep clean. Baseboard heaters which have been mechanically dam-aged should be repaired or replaced.
• Oil Furnaces and Boilers: Oil systems should be checked by a qualified technician on an annual basis. Oily soot deposits at registers of forced-air systems may indicate a cracked heat exchanger. A technician should be contacted. The exhaust pipe from the furnace or boiler should be checked for loose connections or corroded sections. The barometric damper on the exhaust pipe should rotate freely. The chimney clean out should be cleared of any debris. The oil tank should be inspected for leaks. Soot on the front of the furnace or boiler may indicate a draft or combustion problem. A technician should be contacted.
• Wood Stoves: Wood stove chimneys and flues should be checked for creosote build-up and cleaned at least annually (more frequently depending upon use). Clearance to combustibles around wood stoves should be maintained at all times. If there is any doubt about the safety of a wood stove, contact the city building inspector immediately.

Heating Ducts

• Have your ducts cleaned at least every 5 to 6 years, this keeps your furnace clean and will increase life expectancy. Make sure your ducts have no cracks or leaks in the ductwork and tape were needed.

Water Heater

• Drain tank at least every year and flush it out. Hook a garden hose up to the bottom drain valve. Place the garden hose in a position to allow full discharge of the water through the hose (in the yard or flower bed or the bath tub). Open the drain valve wide open. DO NOT CLOSE OFF THE INCOMING COLD WATER SUPPLY TO THE HEATER. Run the water out of the hose until the water runs clear. Once the water is clear, shut off the bottom drain valve and remove the garden hose.

Electrical System

• To prevent power outages, be sure there are not too many appliances plugged into one circuit.

Plumbing System

• Avoid flushing any paper products other than toilet paper down the toilets. Check for corrosion, leaks, and add a clean out compound to system once a year.

Air Conditioning or Swamp Coolder System

• Check filters every month.
• Have annual system maintenance done one month before the air conditioning season begins.
• Keep the condensing unit free of debris.

Humidifiers

• Water levels in humidifiers should be checked and adjusted monthly. Interior components should be replaced on an as needed basis. The pad on drum type humidifiers should be replaced annually. The water supply to humidifiers should be shut off for the summer months and activated for the heating months. On systems with air conditioning or a heat pump, the damper in the humidifier ductwork should be closed during the cooling season.

Microwave

• Do not use pans or dishes that are metal or have a metallic trim.
• Only use mild soap and/or baking soda to clean the interior (abrasive cleaners or scouring pads can damage the lining).

Refrigerator

• Clean the interior shelves, shell and gaskets every 3 months.
• Once a year, clean the coils on the back or underneath.

Range and Oven

• To avoid damaging the burners, do not use extra-large and heavy cooking pots or pans.
• If you have a self-cleaning oven, do not use any other method to clean it.

Garbage Disposal

• To clean the disposal, push a full tray of ice cubes through it while running cold water. Always remember to run water during use and for at least two minutes after you finish. This prevents stoppages.
• Jammed Disposal: A disposal wrench is provided with your garbage disposal and will either be in a pouch on the disposal or will be in one of the kitchen drawers. There is a female receptor for the wrench on the bottom of the disposal. You will need to put the wrench in the receptor and turn it counter clockwise until the wrench turns freely. Then press the reset button located at the bottom of the disposal. Your disposal should once again operate properly. If you drop a fork in your disposal, always TURN THE POWER OFF before you fish it out.

Washer and Dryer

• Clean the lint screen after each load of clothes has been dried and the unit is empty.
• To adjust the level of your washing machine, turn the legs clockwise to lower them or counter clockwise to raise them.

Hot Tub/Spa/Pool

• Keep a proper water level.
• Consult your pool and spa company for suggestions about maintaining your particular system

Structure or Structural

• Foundation Walls: Foundation walls should be checked for evidence of deterioration, dampness and movement. Limited dampness from slow moisture migration can be anticipated with most older foundation walls. This will often result in minor surface deterioration. Semi-annual inspections allow for monitoring of this situation. Cracks and voids should be filled. Filling cracks allows for easy monitoring of movement between inspections. Access hatches should be provided to all crawl space areas.
• Wood Framing: Exposed wooden structural components in the basement should be checked for evidence of rot and insect infestation. Deterioration usually results in sagging structural components.
• Wall and Ceiling Surface Cracks: Wall and ceiling surface cracks should be monitored for evidence of significant movement. Minor movement due to normal settling and shrinkage should be anticipated.
• Door Frames: Door frames should be checked to determine their square-ness. Door frames showing significant movement over a six month period are normally indications of more serious problems.
• Grading: The grading immediately adjacent to the house should be checked to ensure a slope of one inch per foot for the first six feet away from the house (where practical). Catch basins should be cleaned and tested.

1. Roofs, 2. Gutters, 3. Leaking and Damaged Downspurts

• 1. Roofing Installation: Most residential roofing consists of Laminate (asphalt) shingles. These can be purchased in 3-Tab, 25, 30 and 40 year shingles. Don't be fooled by the numbers. None of these shingles are going to withstand any type of severe weather in 12 -15 years. After 20 + years in the business, I still have NO IDEA how they come up with these numbers. However, the thicker the shingle, the more value you are going to get for your buck while they last. Not to mention that a 30 year shingle (which is recommend for 99% of the homes), it is going to be a prettier application and save you some cash compared to the thinner 3 - Tab.
• 2. Gutters: Gutters are an important part of your home's weatherproofing system. For many homeowners, their gutter system is a secondary concern and often gets neglected. Don't make that mistake! It is important that you maintain a free-flowing gutter system as your gutters prevent rain from running from your roof and falling too close to your house. Flowing water away from your house properly will protect your foundation, keep stains from developing on your siding, and keep walkways ice-free in the wintertime. There are four basic types of gutters available - aluminum, galvanized steel, vinyl and sometimes you will find wood gutters. Galvanized steel gutters, although the least expensive, also require the most attention and maintenance. Both aluminum and vinyl gutters offer the most maintenance-free solution as they are durable and resistant to corrosion.
• 3. Leaking and Damaged Downspout: You will sometimes find that the downspout joints loosen and lose their ability to be watertight. Start by removing the screws holding the joint together or the retaining hardware depending on how yours is attached. 2. Pull apart the pieces in the joint and use the wire brush to remove any existing caulk on both the outside of the male piece and the inside of the female piece of the joint. 3. Inspect the hardware to be sure that the hardware is not in such condition that it is not reusable. Your downspout might be dented so that it cannot be used or your retaining hardware may be damaged. Replace any pieces that cannot be reused with new material. 4. Apply caulk to the outside of the male piece of the joint, near the end, and reattach the female piece. 5. Secure the joint with screws or other retaining hardware suitable for your gutters. 6. Leaking gutter sections. If you find a leak at the joint, and there is no apparent damage such as rust or dents, your sealant is most likely the culprit. Try to scrape away as much of the old caulk sealant that is visible. 7. Then, simply apply a joint caulk, such as silicone, to waterproof the joint. 8. Leaking areas within straight gutter are usually due to rusting gutter sections. You can temporarily patch this problem, but the section will most likely need to be replaced within a couple years. To patch the rusted area, first clean the rust away using your wire brush and water. Be sure that you brush away all the rust so that you minimize the potential for the rust to spread. 9. Use your putty knife to spread roofing cement onto the clean area and the surrounding areas. Try to keep the patch as flat as possible so that water will run down your gutter properly. If your rusted area is very large or you want to make a more permanent fix, you should replace the entire gutter section or cut out the damaged section and replace it. 10. Replacing a damaged gutter section. There are times when you will have to remove and replace sections of your gutter system that have been damaged by rust or falling debris such as tree branches or ice. Before replacing sections of gutter that are sagging, be sure that it is your gutter, and not the gutter support, which has failed. You should first remove any retaining hardware from the section of gutter that you need to replace. As shown, remove the retainers and connectors. 11. Use a 4x4 block of wood and place it inside the good section of gutter as you cut the bad section out with a hacksaw. This will keep your gutter in good shape while you are cutting and prevent the gutter from twisting as you cut it. 12. Cut out a section of gutter to replace the piece you have cut out of the existing gutter. Cut the replacement section about 2" longer than the section that is being replaced to allow for some overlap. 13. Using your caulk gun, apply roofing cement to the inside of the original gutter and place the new section into place so that it overlaps about an inch on each side. 14. Drill holes appropriate to your rivets into the overlapping sections of the gutter, and securely fasten the sections together with rivets. 15. Replace any retaining hardware that you originally removed, so that the gutter stays in place.

Lead Based Paint

• There are many substances that are found in our homes besides air and water. Some of these substances are harmful, but most are not. The amount of any given substance, or even its mere presence, may determine if your home is safe or not. The concentration levels of these substances may determine if you are dealing with an aesthetic issue, a long-term health risk, or an immediate health threat. Each year, millions of people die or become seriously ill due to mysterious illnesses. We believe that many of these illnesses are caused by environmental hazards that cannot be seen, smelled, or noticed. We believe there are five main causes to these illnesses: radon contamination, carbon monoxide poisoning, water contamination, lead-based paint exposure, and mold exposure.
• Although it's true that paint in older homes and buildings may be lead-based, the truth is that lead-based paints for residential purposes were virtually banned in 1971, and many companies stopped adding lead to their paints long before then. However, if older lead-based paint in your home is deteriorating, it could be hazardous to you and especially to your children.
  The Problem: Deaths from lead poisoning are now rare, but it is not unusual for a child's blood to contain enough lead to cause intellectual and developmental delay, neurological problems, kidney disease, and anemia. Children absorb 40-50% of the lead that gets into their mouths (adults only 10%). Even small amounts of lead can produce high concentrations in the blood of young children because their bodies are small. Since children's brains are still developing, the effect of lead poisoning can be especially damaging.
  Today, lead-based paint is the most common source of lead poisoning in children. Over many years, painted surfaces crumble and become common household dust. This dust coats the objects that curious children put in their mouths. Adults can also ingest lead in this way. It is the most common way for the lead in paint to get into a person (and it is reassuring that your dust tested negative). Children will also chew on windowsills or other painted surfaces. Sometimes they will eat old paint chips.
  Lead is used to make paint to help it last longer. Prior to World War II, heavily lead-based paints contained as much as 40% lead by dry weight. The amount of lead in household paint was reduced in 1950, and reduced even further in 1978. Most apartments and houses built before 1950 still contain paint with high levels of lead, particularly on doors and around windows. Later household paints may test positive for lead, but generally contain much smaller amounts.
  Action Levels: Paint does contain organic solvents, which are used to form a film that makes the paint both durable and washable. These solvents release fumes that can be irritating to some people; children and pets may be more sensitive than adults. Fortunately, the fumes evaporate and dissipate as the paint dries. To avoid adverse effects from fumes, ventilate the area well while painting and during the drying period. Latex paints have only a small percentage of organic solvents in them (around 4 to 8 percent), but oil-based paints can have a much higher content and consequently will release more fumes. It's probably best not to choose oil-based paints if you're painting in winter. For more information go to - U.S. Environmental Protection Agency - EPA Lead Based Paint.